Hidden Kii Peninsula - Hatenashi Mountains: Walking the Kohechi Shugendo Trail

The "Hatenashi Mountains" located along the border of Totsukawa Village, Wakayama and Nara Prefecture is a mountainous area crossed by the "Kohechi" route, the most rugged of the five Kumano Kodo routes. The vast mountain mass continues, so extensive it's described as "hateshi nashi" (endless), long known since ancient times as a training ground for shugendo ascetics.

Kohechi: The Most Challenging Kumano Kodo Route

The Kohechi connects Koyasan (Wakayama Prefecture) to Kumano Hongu Taisha over approximately 70 kilometers, the Kumano Kodo route with the greatest elevation change requiring the most physical stamina. The Hatenashi Mountain crossing section is particularly demanding, offering the experience of a rigorous yet beautiful mountain pilgrimage world: ancient stone-paved roads, abandoned villages, and summit jizo guardian statues.

Hatenashi Hamlet: The Sky Village

"Hatenashi Hamlet" midway along the Kohechi is a small settlement located on a mountainside at approximately 800 meters elevation. Jizo guardian statues line the stone-paved road through the hamlet, and the scenery against the mountain backdrop is called "the village in the sky."

Totsukawa Onsen: Hidden Springs of Japan's Largest Village

Totsukawa Village (Japan's largest village by area) spreading at the foot of the Hatenashi Mountains has three hot springs: "Totsukawa Onsen," "Kamiyu Onsen," and "Tosen-ji Onsen." All are known as secluded springs with 100% natural flowing water.

Access

Limited express buses run to Totsukawa Onsen from Osaka/Yagi and Shingu. From there, Hatenashi Pass is accessed on foot.